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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the owners completely astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.